Disassemble your WASR-10 Trigger Group
This step by step tutorial will teach you how to take apart the WASR-10 Trigger Group. This article focuses on the Tapco G2 trigger group which was put into your WASR-10 to make it 922r compliant. Taking apart the WASR-10 trigger group is really easy. If you have an opposable thumb, or even better, two, you qualify for the job! And yes, don't worry, this article also covers how to put it back together. :)
While this DIY article is not a review, before we started we did want to put in a quick word about the Tapco G2 Single Hook AK Trigger Group
We are really impressed by what is essentially an inexpensive, non-adjustable trigger group. The 3.X pound trigger pull is not too much, not too little - just enough. It also eliminates the painful "trigger slap" that some AK triggers give you when the bolt carrier comes back and resets the trigger. Putting it together is a breeze (as you will see below) and thousands and thousands of rounds into it, we have found it to be very durable. And did we mention it was inexpensive?:)
You Know the Drill
STOP. Before you do anything else, remove the WASR's magazine, rack the bolt back and inspect the chamber to make sure it's empty.
Figure 1: Remove the magazine, inspect the chamber
Yes, this applies to you, too. We have all experienced the shock while monkeying around with the rifle, we suddenly realize we are holding a safety-off, chambered, loaded gun in the living room...with no zombies in sight. Not cool at all. And if we are not above making horrible mistakes like that, you certainly are not either (hey, don't give us that look! You are the guy that needs to read an article to figure out how to disassemble an AK trigger group...:)
Field Stripping the WASR-10
First, we are going to strip the rifle - like you would do to give it a normal cleaning. Wait... take that back...its easier to access the trigger group if we leave the gas tube in place. If you already know how to field strip the WASR-10, you can skip this part.
Verify that the rifle is empty (again) and pop off the top cover by pressing the "button" at the rear of the cover. After the cover is off, push the button forward again to remove the recoil spring.
Figure 2: Press the "button" at the back of the top cover, then remove the recoil spring.
Now pull the bolt carrier all the way to the back of the receiver. Once the bolt carrier is in the far rear position you can just lift the bolt carrier, bolt, and attached gas piston out.
Figure 3: With the spring out of the way, pull the bolt carrier back and lift it out.
Now pull the trigger (while you have your thumb on the hammer to ease it to its "relaxed" position.
Figure 4: Use your thumb to ease the hammer forward
Look at the hammer spring (the wire coiled around your hammer's axis). Attached to it, you will see two "arms" that reach back and rest on the trigger. This makes this single spring double as a hammer spring / trigger reset spring. It has two arms to keep it from pulling to one side and to allow it to (at least somewhat) function if one "arm" were to break off. This "Keep It Simple Stupid" design is how the AK earns it's great reputation for reliability.
Use a prying tool, a pair of needle nose pliers, or whatever you have available to fish the "arms" off the trigger. Pull them all the way up behind the lugs of the hammer and cross them. Then, raid your kitchen for a twist tie to secure both arms behind the hammer.
Figure 5: Use a prying tool or flat screw driver to pull up the ends of the spring.
Side note on twist ties: I have never met a guy that actually used a twist tie on a bag of bread anyway. Most guys use the old fashioned "knot" or "fold under the bread" method, both of which coincidentally are *not* "female approved". But hey, I am not here to give you relationship advice and, if she let you buy an AK-47, she must be pretty easygoing to begin with. But, I digress...
The hammer spring is under a lot of tension. If you don't secure the ends behind the lugs after crossing them and they happen to snap off while you have your hand in the action, there will be blood. Consider yourself warned.
Figure 6: Ends of the hammer spring crossed and safely secured behind the hammer lugs.
Now take your "fire selector switch" AKA "Safety", and pull it all the way up. This will allow you to move it sideways through the key shaped hole on the right hand side of the receiver.
Figure 7: Move the "fire selector switch" up and then pull it out to the side.
The fire selector switch also holds the so called "Shepherd's Crook" or "wire pin" in place. This is the pin that falls into a groove on the trigger pin and the hammer pin to prevent them from falling out. It is also one of the very few things on the AK that are *not* very practical. If you bought your WASR-10 "new" in a store, it will have the original "wire pin". We strongly recommend replacing this pin with a plate, which is way more practical and will add years to your life. Buy a "Kreb's Retaining Plate" or any other brand but; buy one! You'll thank us later.
Remove the your Shepherd's crook or retaining plate by using a flat screw driver, prying tool whatever you have handy. It is easy; it's getting the *!@!#@!@@# pin back in that is the hard part.
Figure 8: Remove the Shepherd's Crook (or in this case "Retaining Plate".
Now that the pin/plate is not seated in the grooves of the hammer and trigger pins, both can be removed. Note: This should not require any force! Use anything with a small diameter to gently tap the right-hand side of the trigger pin. It should slide out of the left-hand side easily.
Figure 9: Pushing out the trigger pin.
Lift out out the trigger and set it aside.
Figure 10: Set the trigger aside for now.
Now push out the hammer pin in the same fashion. It too should come out without the use of force.
Figure 11: Gently Push out the hammer pin.
You have now removed the Tapco G2 trigger group. Yay! It should look like this:
Figure 12: WASR-10 trigger group removed.
But why stop there? Let's take the trigger group apart all the way by removing the disconnector from the trigger. To do this, you need to slide out the hollow pin that combines the two. This should not require any force, but beware: Between the two parts is a tiny spring that is under pressure. While we are not talking "garage door opener pressure", there still is enough pressure to make the tiny spring pop out and get lost. Bottom line: Remove the hollow pin carefully.
Figure 13: Slide out the hollow pin that attaches the disconnector to the trigger.
This seems to be a good time to side track a bit and discuss the firing mechanism on the AK, and the roll of that mysterious forward facing hook called the "disconnector". When you pull the trigger for the first shot, it angles forward the hook on the trigger itself, which was holding the hammer. This allows the hammer to slap forward under the pressure of the hammer spring and strike the firing pin which in turn hits the primer in the back of the cartridge. This makes the primer ignite which in turn ignites the powder in the cartridge. When the powder ignites it turns from solid into gas form, expanding very rapidly in the process.
Because the gas needs to escape, it pushes the bullet down the barrel. As the bullet passes the little hole underneath your gas feedback tube, it lets a small amount of gas escape. Once in your gas tube it pushes your piston backwards. As this happens, your bolt and bolt carrier get rammed back as well. This first ejects the now empty casing. As the bolt travels backwards over the hammer, it moves the hammer backwards.
However, because you are still holding down the trigger, the hook on the trigger is still angled down, so it can not prevent the hammer from following the bolt carrier forwards and striking the next round. The disconnector's forward facing hook gives the hammer something to hold onto while the trigger hook is still unavailable. When you let your finger off the trigger the disconnector hook will release the lugs on the hammer and give them over to the hooks on the trigger.
Full auto versions of the trigger group have a disconnector that has a little spring which allows it to move out of the way of the hammer if the fire selector switch is in the "center" position, and the little notch of the fire selector pushes the disconnector out of the way of the hammer. With nothing to hold onto when it travels back, the hammer will continue to come forward as fast as it can until the trigger is released and the hooks on the trigger can catch the hammer lugs and prevent them from moving forward. This is called "full auto". This is as felonious as it is intriguing, so don't even think about it.
Figure 14: Tadaa! "Trigger", "disconnector spring", "disconnector", "hollow pin" and "trigger pin".
Enough with the lecture already, lets take the hammer out. To do so, angle it sideways, and slide it out through the back of the receiver.
Figure 15: Angle the wrapped-up hammer 90 degrees and slide it out.
If there was a pressing reason (like a repair) you could now remove the hammer spring from the hammer. It is no big deal, but there is reason to do it.
You have now officially fully disassembled your trigger group. This would be a good time to clean it, and put some thick grease in the disconnector spring channel.
Since we did promise to help you put the thing together again, here goes:
Insert the hammer back into the receiver (sideways). Slide it to its position (forward hole). Now angle it 90 degrees to its original position. The side with the tied up ends of the spring, should be facing the barrel. While you do this, the hammer spring bulges out and will be in the way a little. If necessary, stick in something like a flat screwdriver to keep it in place.
Then take the hammer pin (hammer and trigger pins are identical) and push it through the receiver and hammer from left to right. Push it through all the way. Remember the pin is not secured yet, so keep an eye on it. If it keeps falling out during the next step, you can put a little piece of painters tape over the left side of it.
Do *not* take the twist tie off yet!
Figure 16: Replacing the hammer pin.
Reassemble the trigger and disconnector by pushing the hollow pin back through both parts. Before you do this, don't forget to put in the little disconnector spring!
Now drop the trigger back into its hole in the bottom of the receiver and slide the trigger pin through the hollow pin. If necessary, temporarily secure the pin with some painters tape over it's left side.
Figure 17: Replacing the Trigger Pin through the hollow trigger pin.
Remove the twist tie and *carefully* set the "arms" of the hammer pin back on the trigger. Both should have their sharp, flesh snatching hooks resting on the inside on the trigger. While you do this keep an eye on those axis (hammer/trigger) pins. They tend to try and slip out while doing this part.
Figure 18: Untie the hammer spring and lay its ends over the trigger group.
This is the hard and frustrating part. Take your shepherd's crook and slide it under the first groove of the trigger pin. Use a small flat screwdriver, to rotate it up into position. It should fall into the groove on both the hammer and the trigger. Make sure it is in place by trying to push the hammer and trigger pin out. This should be impossible. Don't proceed until you have succeeded.
If you already have a retaining plate, good for you. Push the front indent onto the groove on the hammer pin, then angle it down so that the plate's hole in the top is in front of the fire selector hole on the left hand side. Verify that the plate falls into the groove of both the hammer and the trigger pins. When you put your safety on (in the next step), make sure the safety goes through the hole in the plate before sticking it into the hole in the left hand side of the receiver.
Figure 19: Replacing the retainer plate.
Now it is time to re-install the fire selector / safety. Angle it straight up and push it back through the key shaped hole on the right-hand side of the receiver. If you have a retaining plate make sure to put it through there as well.
Figure 20: Re-installing the Fire Selector / Safety
Almost there: Time to put the bolt carrier back into its tracks. Before you do this, push the hammer down so the trigger hook holds it (normal fire ready position). Now put the bolt in the bolt carrier (if you took it out). In any case, make sure you slide it all the way forward so the square notch is on the bottom.
Now place the piston into the gas block and hold the bolt carrier over the rear-most part of the receiver, where there are no rails. Then gently push it down (you'll feel the square notch on the bolt pushing into the hammer which is being pushed back by its spring). Nest, slide the bolt carrier forward. If this does not go easy, it is either not lined up with the tracks through which it slides, or you have the bolt in a wrong position on the carrier (bolt has to be all the way forward, with the square notch of the rotating bolt pointing straight down).
Figure 21: Prepare the bolt carrier group for re-installation.
Figure 22: Place the bolt carrier on the back of the receiver and gently push it into the spring, then slide it forward.
Slide the bolt carrier all the way forward. Then insert the recoil spring in the back of the bolt carrier, push it in, and set it into its slot on the rear trunnion.
Figure 23: Re-installing the recoil spring.
Finally, replace the top cover. Many ways to do this (Moscow Slap). A private defense contractor that works in Afghanistan taught me the following technique:
1.) Put the front of the top cover in its groove on the front trunnion.
2.) Place one hand around the gun, with your thumb over the top cover and apply forward pressure.
3.) Use your other hand to gently push the top cover down.
Or develop your own technique:)
Figure 24: Cover in the groove, fingers under and thumb over gun. Ready to pop the back of the cover over the "button"
Function test your rifle using snap-caps.